Ever stood in front of a painting that just stops you in your tracks?
Not because it's fancy or over-polished, but because it's real. It tells a story deeper than you expected. That’s what it feels like standing in the Warmun Art Centre. Out in the middle of Gija Country in the East Kimberley, this place isn’t just about art. It’s about people, memory, healing, and passing stories on.
This isn’t some high-end city gallery with white walls and wine. It’s a red-dirt, heart-and-soul place that’s all about culture, connection, and keeping the flame of Gija knowledge burning. Believe me, if you’re ever heading north-west, you’ll want to make time for it.
The Roots of Warmun: Land, Pain, and Power
Warmun sits on Gija Country – rugged, ochre-rich land. But it’s also Country that saw dark times. When Europeans rolled into the East Kimberley chasing cattle in the late 1800s, the Gija people were pushed off their land and many were killed. Massacres at places like Bedford Downs and Mistake Creek are still remembered by Elders today.
But the Gija people didn’t just vanish. In the 70s, they started moving back, rebuilding their community at Turkey Creek (now Warmun). That’s when the revival really began. Language, ceremonies, and stories being shared again, out loud and with pride.
The Gurirr Gurirr: When Art and Spirit Met
In 1974, something powerful happened. After Cyclone Tracy smashed through Darwin, a Gija Elder had a vision. A woman’s spirit travelling through Country. From that came the Gurirr Gurirr (also known as the Krill Krill) ceremony: a mix of dance, song, and story. They painted the boards used in those ceremonies with ochre earth pigments straight from the land.
That’s when artists like Rover Thomas and Paddy Jaminji helped kick off a whole new art movement. Not just painting the Dreamtime, but real historical events too – like cyclones, massacres, and sacred sites. That blend of old and new is now the signature of East Kimberley painting.
The Centre Is Born – A Place Run by Mob, for Mob
By 1998, the Elders knew it was time to create a proper space. That’s how the Warmun Art Centre was born. No outsider running the show. This place is 100% community-owned. Every cent made from art sales goes straight back to the artists and their families.
Founders included legends like Queenie McKenzie, Hector Jandany, Madigan Thomas, and of course, Rover Thomas. They built the centre not just to sell paintings, but to keep Gija culture strong. Young ones come in to learn from Elders, picking up language, story, and painting technique all at once.
What Makes the Art So Unique?
It’s all about ochre, natural pigments dug from the land. Red, yellow, white, black. No acrylics here. The artists grind down ochre and mix it with sap or water. Some even cook the ochre to change the colours – real bush chemistry.
You’ll see paintings that look simple at first – blocks of colour, maybe some dots – but they carry generations of meaning. Some show Ngarranggarni (the Dreaming), while others show true stories – massacres, ceremonies, family travels.
Here’s the rule: you can only paint your own story. No borrowing someone else’s Dreaming. That’s sacred. That’s law.
Meet the Artists – From Elders to Kids
Rover Thomas became world famous, even represented Australia at the Venice Biennale. Queenie McKenzie painted Country and the painful truths of history. Lena Nyadbi had her artwork placed on a rooftop in Paris. Shirley Purdie won major awards blending Christian and Gija stories.
It hasn’t stopped. These days, it’s not unusual to see four or five generations from the same family painting side by side. A grandma painting next to her daughter, her granddaughter, even her great-granddaughter. That’s real cultural strength.
More Than Just Paintings
Warmun Art Centre isn’t just a gallery. It’s a community lifeline. It creates jobs, boosts pride and gives the young ones purpose. They run workshops, school visits, and ceremonies. It’s a place to gather, yarn, learn, and keep culture alive.
Tourists come too. Not in huge buses – it’s not that kind of place. But art lovers, people wanting a deeper connection – they drive out, meet the artists, hear the stories firsthand.
The artists? They’re generous with their time and stories. But they also know when to draw the line. Some things are sacred and aren’t meant to be shared. That balance of openness and respect is what makes the place feel so genuine.
When the Flood Came – And the Art Was Saved
In 2011, disaster struck. A massive flood tore through Warmun and smashed the art centre. Paintings were swept away, covered in mud, some wrapped around trees. Everyone thought the collection was gone.
But the community didn’t give up. They scoured the bush, found over 400 artworks, and got help from expert conservators. Over years, the works were cleaned, restored, and returned. They rebuilt the centre on higher ground – bigger, safer, and stronger.
The flood tested everything. But what came out of it was pure resilience.
Why This Place Matters
Warmun Art Centre is more than an art space. It’s a living museum, a classroom, a healing place, and a powerhouse of culture. It shows what can happen when community runs the show. It’s about owning your story and sharing it on your own terms.
So whether you’re an art lover, a curious traveller, or just someone who wants to know more about the real stories of this country – Warmun is worth your attention.
It’s not flashy. It’s not loud. But it’s powerful.
Go there, if you get the chance.
And even if you don’t – now you know the story.
Getting There:
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Warmun is about 3 hours south of Kununurra, WA.
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Best time to visit is during the dry season (May to September).
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Call ahead to check gallery hours and whether artists are available.
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Respect local protocols – this is a working community.
Website: https://warmunart.com.au